Root vegetable crisps are a fascinating con. They’re positioned as healthier than potato crisps, despite being fried vegetables with similar calorie counts. They’re positioned as more sophisticated, despite tasting mostly of whatever oil they’re cooked in. They’re positioned as interesting, despite being less flavourful than the potatoes they’re replacing.
Tesco’s version commits all these sins while looking beautiful.
The colours are stunning. Purple beetroot, orange carrot, cream parsnip. A bowl of these looks like autumn in vegetable form. Instagram would approve. Your mouth will be less impressed.
The flavour reality
Beetroot crisps taste of earth and sugar and not much else. Parsnip crisps taste faintly of parsnip, which is faint to begin with. Carrot crisps are just orange. The sea salt helps, but it’s fighting an uphill battle against vegetables that weren’t designed for this format.
Buy these for visual impact at a gathering. Eat them with low expectations. Return to potato crisps with renewed appreciation.
