Cheese fondue as a crisp flavour is attempting sophistication. Fondue is dinner parties and ski chalets and European elegance. It’s not pub snacks and football matches and British casualness.
Walkers’ attempt at this sophistication is awkward. The flavour is cheesy, certainly. There’s something approaching the nutty, wine-influenced character of actual fondue. But it’s still a crisp, still mass-produced, still fundamentally unsuited to the elegance it’s claiming.
The result is cheese crisps with ideas above their station. They taste good, in a generic cheesy way, but the fondue concept doesn’t quite land. You’re aware of the aspiration without being convinced by the execution.
Interesting attempt. Incomplete success.
